ok so I cleaned the piston heads, and wiped out the block.  I then placed the clean pistons in the cylinders and measured the gap (front to back) between the piston and the cylinder wall, 0.003 slid between, but 0.004 and 0.005 would not fit. (below piston 1-4 in order)

today, I was going to go over to Werks Engineering in Virginia Beach to bring the cylinder block to be honed, because its still within spec right?  Now I think I just need some advice on where to get rings and what to do about the valves, I am still thinking about taking the bottom apart and replacing the cam chain at least, because like I said I have never heard this engine run at all, it supposedly has about 27k on it though.  Any advice for the machine shop or anything else?
(piston 4 below)

Alright, well the cylinder block was harder to remove than what I thought it would be.  First I removed the cam chain guide, and the cam chain adjuster lock nut and the bolt beneath that, then turned the engine some to line up all the pistons and tried to lift the cylinder block off of the studs.

  Eventually I was able to remove it, it took some penetrating oil and a small screwdriver and a rubber mallet. 

After removing the cylinder head, I started to remove the pistons by removing the innermost or outermost circlip (whichever was easiest to get to) and then pushing out each gudgeon pin using a small flat-head screwdriver.  I lined the pistons up in order and attempted to remove the two piston rings and the three-piece oil control ring that is on each piston.  That was going well until I got to piston 3, where I snapped the 2nd ring, due to my impatience (looks like I have just incurred my first cost other than new gaskets).  There are some pictures here, any suggestions for how everything looks as far as ware goes?  Should I replace all of the rings?

piston 1 (above), Piston 2-4 sequentially below

here you can see the broken 2nd piston ring on piston #3

The next step I took was removing the cylinder head, which was attached by 12 nuts two of which were close to the spark plugs (I removed all four spark plugs as well).  After removing all of the nuts I bumped the bottom of the cylinder head with a rubber mallet and then lifted it off, and then removed the cylinder head gasket.  Once removed, the pistons looked very dirty, Whats next?  Here are some pictures let me know what the condition of everything looks like to you?  the cylinder studs looked a little rusty? (I think the Cylinders are numbered from 1-4 from left to right, Correct me if I'm wrong.  So that makes the pictures below cylinder numbers 4,3,2,1 from top to bottom)

Here is a look under the cylinder head cover.

 For some reason I thought that it would be a little dirtier than it was.
Next I removed the cam chain tensioner, and the one of the cam retention bolts.  In order to get the last cam retention bolt off, I removed the contact breaker cover on the right (retained by two screws) and
turned the engine by clamping onto the large hexagonal washer, This allowed me to remove the last cam retention bolt and move the cam sprocket to the left.  I tied a small length of fishing line to the cam chain so that it would not fall down the tunnel, and then removed the cam chain from the cam sprocket.  Next I removed the cam shaft and the cam sprocket, by removing to the right hand side.

So there are some pics of the cam shaft and the cylinder head camshaft bearing surfaces (which seem a little scratched to me).  What do you guys think about the condition of everything?  Also I'm not entirely sure how or what I am supposed to be looking for when checking the rocker arm-to-rocker arm shaft clearance?  Any help on either of these topics?

Ok so I started by removing the 10mm bolts on the top of the cylinder head cover, including removing the breather cover and the four 10mm bolts beneath it.  i am organizing the parts by labeling cardboard and pushing the bolts through them, and laying out some labeled paper towels in the order that I removed the parts.

Today I started to take apart the 400F engine.  Here is what it looked like before starting.

So that was the tag that was on the engine, its a 1975, and it had "70% Leak" written on the tag, but over the top of the 70% was written 30%.  The guy I got it from said that the result of a leak down test was 30%.  I figured either way that was too much, and I wanted to learn something so I was going to take it apart.

I did not think to take a picture until after I removed the tank and seat. so here is a picture of the bike before I start.  Below is a pic of the seat and tank.  I'll be putting the old seat, tank and side covers up for sale at some point.